Carole's Hints
When Carole Gura joined the Newburyport Horticultural Society in 1974, she was the organization's youngest member. If you know Carole at all, it will come as no surprise that by 1980 she was its President. She is a Certified Master Gardener and an accomplished floral designer who has exhibited in museums and flower shows including the Museum of Fine Arts in Boston and the Boston Flower Show. Carole has shared her monthly hints with the Newburyport Horticultural Society for years. We are happy to now publish them on our website. Thank you Carole for sharing your enthusiasm and expertise!
OCTOBER 2024
Can you believe September is over? It went by so fast. The best weather ever. Let’s see what October brings.
1. There’s still plenty of time to plant your spring bulbs. You can actually plant them up until the ground freezes. But I advise you to do it sooner. After planted, make sure you give them a good drink of water several times.
2. It’s time to start getting your calla lilies ready to store for the winter. First, break off all the foliage. Dig up or dump out pots in a wheelbarrow and break off any roots and soil. A light spray with the hose will get off any excess soil. I lay mine out on a flat surface for a couple days to dry in the sun before storing. Once they are dry, I put them in paper bag in my plant room where it’s cool but not freezing. You can do the same with Gladiola bulbs. Dahlias too, but it’s a little too soon to take them up because most are still blooming. Once the first frost hits, it will be a good time to do it then.
3. By now, you should’ve brought in your house plants before we get hit with the first frost. The first frost used to come about October 15. But now because of climate change, it’s a little later. The closer you are to the water, the later the frost comes. Just keep an eye on the weather. In regard to the frost, what is an ‘Indian Summer’? A period of summer like weather AFTER we have had the FIRST FROST of the fall.
4. Time to clean, oil, and sharpen all your garden tools for next spring. The oil will keep them from rusting. They can be stored in an unheated shed for the winter. But store all your liquid and granular fertilizers and other supplies in a place where they won’t freeze. Especially organics. Granular organics usually have some bone meal in them which the animals can smell and will eat. Put them in metal container if you can. I also store all my seeds in a metal box, or a glass jar covered.
5. Put rodent protection around the base of the trunk of your trees. There are several tree tapes available, and a tight chicken wire will work too. I lost a beautiful Japanese Stewartia a few years ago from rabbits girdling its trunk. The chicken wire wasn’t tight enough around the trunk to keep them out.
6. Keep watering your trees and shrubs until we get cold weather. With the drought we’ve had, they need to be in good shape to survive the coming winter. Remember to drain your hoses before putting them away.
7. It’s a little early to apply the anti-desiccant called Wilt Pruf. But if you use it, the temperature has to be above 40°. It will help keep your evergreens from having winter burn, especially Boxwood and hydrangeas canes. It’s great for evergreen boughs used for decorating and Christmas trees. Spray outside.
8. Put fresh flowers on your shopping list. There’s so much available all year long now. Color stimulates your mind. Treat yourself !!!
And last but not least, take a ride along the Merrimack River on Pleasant Valley Rd. in Amesbury and Merrimac especially when our color is at peak. It’s so beautiful.
Photo: Purple Hyacinth bean. An annual vine loved by the pollinators. It will grow over 20 ft. if supported properly. It has purple pods once the flowers go by. Easy to start from seed.
Can you believe September is over? It went by so fast. The best weather ever. Let’s see what October brings.
1. There’s still plenty of time to plant your spring bulbs. You can actually plant them up until the ground freezes. But I advise you to do it sooner. After planted, make sure you give them a good drink of water several times.
2. It’s time to start getting your calla lilies ready to store for the winter. First, break off all the foliage. Dig up or dump out pots in a wheelbarrow and break off any roots and soil. A light spray with the hose will get off any excess soil. I lay mine out on a flat surface for a couple days to dry in the sun before storing. Once they are dry, I put them in paper bag in my plant room where it’s cool but not freezing. You can do the same with Gladiola bulbs. Dahlias too, but it’s a little too soon to take them up because most are still blooming. Once the first frost hits, it will be a good time to do it then.
3. By now, you should’ve brought in your house plants before we get hit with the first frost. The first frost used to come about October 15. But now because of climate change, it’s a little later. The closer you are to the water, the later the frost comes. Just keep an eye on the weather. In regard to the frost, what is an ‘Indian Summer’? A period of summer like weather AFTER we have had the FIRST FROST of the fall.
4. Time to clean, oil, and sharpen all your garden tools for next spring. The oil will keep them from rusting. They can be stored in an unheated shed for the winter. But store all your liquid and granular fertilizers and other supplies in a place where they won’t freeze. Especially organics. Granular organics usually have some bone meal in them which the animals can smell and will eat. Put them in metal container if you can. I also store all my seeds in a metal box, or a glass jar covered.
5. Put rodent protection around the base of the trunk of your trees. There are several tree tapes available, and a tight chicken wire will work too. I lost a beautiful Japanese Stewartia a few years ago from rabbits girdling its trunk. The chicken wire wasn’t tight enough around the trunk to keep them out.
6. Keep watering your trees and shrubs until we get cold weather. With the drought we’ve had, they need to be in good shape to survive the coming winter. Remember to drain your hoses before putting them away.
7. It’s a little early to apply the anti-desiccant called Wilt Pruf. But if you use it, the temperature has to be above 40°. It will help keep your evergreens from having winter burn, especially Boxwood and hydrangeas canes. It’s great for evergreen boughs used for decorating and Christmas trees. Spray outside.
8. Put fresh flowers on your shopping list. There’s so much available all year long now. Color stimulates your mind. Treat yourself !!!
And last but not least, take a ride along the Merrimack River on Pleasant Valley Rd. in Amesbury and Merrimac especially when our color is at peak. It’s so beautiful.
Photo: Purple Hyacinth bean. An annual vine loved by the pollinators. It will grow over 20 ft. if supported properly. It has purple pods once the flowers go by. Easy to start from seed.
SEPTEMBER 2024
September is finally here YIPPEE!!! It has been a tough summer, and I am really looking forward to the cool days of this season.
1. Purchases of spring bulbs and preparing for their planting should be in full force soon. Remember what I’ve said in the past. Top quality bulbs do the best from reliable sources. They may be more expensive, but you get what you pay for. Find a great spot to plant them with enough sun to make them thrive. Some trees will still be without leaves in the spring, so keep that in mind depending on how early or late in the spring the bulbs bloom.
2. If you decide to save seeds from any of your plants, you must wait until they are fully mature before you harvest them. They will turn dark when ready. The seed pods of some plants will open easily when ready. Seeds of the cleome are an excellent example. Some seeds also need to be stratified (frozen) for 2 weeks before planting in order for them to germinate in the spring. Check on the internet for a list of the ones that need this process. Seeds from a hybrid plant will not grow true to their parent plant in most cases. You never know what you will get. So don’t save their seeds. Buy new seeds in the spring for them.
3. It’s almost time to bring in the house plants you put out for the summer. Once the night temperatures reach 50°, it’s time. Be prepared for an adjustment time, usually dropping their leaves, or perhaps a bug infestation. Isolate these plants from the other plants you have kept inside for about two weeks . The environment inside is very different than what they’ve been used to outside. If you find any bugs, treat with neem oil as recommended on the label.
4. I have only 3 tomato plants this year and have been waiting anxiously to pick a nice juicy red tomato. I was so upset to see the chipmunks and squirrels have beat me to it. I never knew they liked them before! So to protect the rest of my crop, I wrapped the plant in a fine mesh netting used to cover blueberries, now used for tomatoes. We’ll see….So far so good.
5. Have any of you noticed a fungus disease or powdery mildew on your lilacs? I have a fungus problem. If you do, there is an all purpose organic bio fungicide called Revitalize made to combat it available at good garden centers. It can be used on most everything even house plants. If you have a bad infestation of fungus you should trim off the branches affected. Be sure to dip your pruners in a solution of bleachy water between each cut. You don’t want to spread the fungus.
6. Interesting facts about squashes and pumpkins. They are in the same large family cucurbitaceae, as are watermelons and cucumbers and are considered a fruit. They are native to North, Central and South America. Traces of them have been found to be over 9,000 years old. Pumpkins picked green will turn orange relatively quickly, but it’s best to let squashes ripen on the vine. Most squash will keep up to 2 to 3 months. Some varieties even longer. Pumpkins can last up to a year if stored properly. My favorite squash is called ‘Sweet Dumpling’ it’s small like an acorn squash but much tastier. Easy to fix too. Just half it, clean out seeds and put a pat of butter in the cavity with brown sugar. Microwave it on high with a shallow amount of water in the bottom of the baking dish covered for about 5 or 6 minutes or until tender. Delicious and really easy.
Photos: planter box of fuchsia and begonias. Vine of ‘Mina Lobata’ Common name is ‘Spanish Flag’ Humming birds love it.
September is finally here YIPPEE!!! It has been a tough summer, and I am really looking forward to the cool days of this season.
1. Purchases of spring bulbs and preparing for their planting should be in full force soon. Remember what I’ve said in the past. Top quality bulbs do the best from reliable sources. They may be more expensive, but you get what you pay for. Find a great spot to plant them with enough sun to make them thrive. Some trees will still be without leaves in the spring, so keep that in mind depending on how early or late in the spring the bulbs bloom.
2. If you decide to save seeds from any of your plants, you must wait until they are fully mature before you harvest them. They will turn dark when ready. The seed pods of some plants will open easily when ready. Seeds of the cleome are an excellent example. Some seeds also need to be stratified (frozen) for 2 weeks before planting in order for them to germinate in the spring. Check on the internet for a list of the ones that need this process. Seeds from a hybrid plant will not grow true to their parent plant in most cases. You never know what you will get. So don’t save their seeds. Buy new seeds in the spring for them.
3. It’s almost time to bring in the house plants you put out for the summer. Once the night temperatures reach 50°, it’s time. Be prepared for an adjustment time, usually dropping their leaves, or perhaps a bug infestation. Isolate these plants from the other plants you have kept inside for about two weeks . The environment inside is very different than what they’ve been used to outside. If you find any bugs, treat with neem oil as recommended on the label.
4. I have only 3 tomato plants this year and have been waiting anxiously to pick a nice juicy red tomato. I was so upset to see the chipmunks and squirrels have beat me to it. I never knew they liked them before! So to protect the rest of my crop, I wrapped the plant in a fine mesh netting used to cover blueberries, now used for tomatoes. We’ll see….So far so good.
5. Have any of you noticed a fungus disease or powdery mildew on your lilacs? I have a fungus problem. If you do, there is an all purpose organic bio fungicide called Revitalize made to combat it available at good garden centers. It can be used on most everything even house plants. If you have a bad infestation of fungus you should trim off the branches affected. Be sure to dip your pruners in a solution of bleachy water between each cut. You don’t want to spread the fungus.
6. Interesting facts about squashes and pumpkins. They are in the same large family cucurbitaceae, as are watermelons and cucumbers and are considered a fruit. They are native to North, Central and South America. Traces of them have been found to be over 9,000 years old. Pumpkins picked green will turn orange relatively quickly, but it’s best to let squashes ripen on the vine. Most squash will keep up to 2 to 3 months. Some varieties even longer. Pumpkins can last up to a year if stored properly. My favorite squash is called ‘Sweet Dumpling’ it’s small like an acorn squash but much tastier. Easy to fix too. Just half it, clean out seeds and put a pat of butter in the cavity with brown sugar. Microwave it on high with a shallow amount of water in the bottom of the baking dish covered for about 5 or 6 minutes or until tender. Delicious and really easy.
Photos: planter box of fuchsia and begonias. Vine of ‘Mina Lobata’ Common name is ‘Spanish Flag’ Humming birds love it.
AUGUST 2024
1. As I told you in my July hints, my vegetables growing in containers are still doing great, with a few exceptions. It is best to plant only one type of vegetable in each container though. I combined Swiss chard and string beans in one oblong planter. Because of all the hot weather, I have been watering the containers every day. It was way better too much water for the string beans, and they rotted. Lesson learned. The Swiss chard looks great though.
2. Now is a good time to cut back annuals that look a little tired and leggy. Be sure to fertilize them with Bloom Booster fertilizer after. Make sure your soil is wet before you fertilize anything. Most everything thing needs some fertilizer now too.
3. Deadheading annuals and perennials is still very important now too. Those of you that have calla lilies remember to cut off the spent blooms but continue to care for the beautiful foliage until it starts to turn yellow. Come October, I’ll tell more about the winter care.
4. Be sure to pick your summer squash, cucumbers, zucchini, and eggplant young before they get overgrown. There’s aways that one zucchini that’s hiding and by the time you see it, it’s a base ball bat.
5. If and when the weather cools, you can plant more lettuce, broccoli, and spinach for a late fall crop.
6. Though it may be a little early start looking at the spring bulb catalogs to decide what you want, order early before they sell out of your favorites. I like to plant many of the same varieties of daffodils in one area for a mass effect. But not in rows, instead in groups of 7 to 10 bulbs in each hole, staggered. It really looks good in the spring.
7. I say this every year. Keep up your garden journal, recording your successes and failures and things you’d like to do new or change for next year
8. Soon mums will be showing up in stores. If you plant them in the ground early, they will come back next year for you.
9. Just one last thing I’ve done this summer. I have had a great raspberry patch since 1988. This year because I could do not do much weeding, the patch has become overgrown with invasive weeds and didn’t produce many raspberries. I decided it was time to do something new. I had my lawn man cut it all down to the ground and I covered it with a non porous tarp.
The sun will bake it and kill everything under it. And I will start with something new in the spring.
1. As I told you in my July hints, my vegetables growing in containers are still doing great, with a few exceptions. It is best to plant only one type of vegetable in each container though. I combined Swiss chard and string beans in one oblong planter. Because of all the hot weather, I have been watering the containers every day. It was way better too much water for the string beans, and they rotted. Lesson learned. The Swiss chard looks great though.
2. Now is a good time to cut back annuals that look a little tired and leggy. Be sure to fertilize them with Bloom Booster fertilizer after. Make sure your soil is wet before you fertilize anything. Most everything thing needs some fertilizer now too.
3. Deadheading annuals and perennials is still very important now too. Those of you that have calla lilies remember to cut off the spent blooms but continue to care for the beautiful foliage until it starts to turn yellow. Come October, I’ll tell more about the winter care.
4. Be sure to pick your summer squash, cucumbers, zucchini, and eggplant young before they get overgrown. There’s aways that one zucchini that’s hiding and by the time you see it, it’s a base ball bat.
5. If and when the weather cools, you can plant more lettuce, broccoli, and spinach for a late fall crop.
6. Though it may be a little early start looking at the spring bulb catalogs to decide what you want, order early before they sell out of your favorites. I like to plant many of the same varieties of daffodils in one area for a mass effect. But not in rows, instead in groups of 7 to 10 bulbs in each hole, staggered. It really looks good in the spring.
7. I say this every year. Keep up your garden journal, recording your successes and failures and things you’d like to do new or change for next year
8. Soon mums will be showing up in stores. If you plant them in the ground early, they will come back next year for you.
9. Just one last thing I’ve done this summer. I have had a great raspberry patch since 1988. This year because I could do not do much weeding, the patch has become overgrown with invasive weeds and didn’t produce many raspberries. I decided it was time to do something new. I had my lawn man cut it all down to the ground and I covered it with a non porous tarp.
The sun will bake it and kill everything under it. And I will start with something new in the spring.
JULY 2024
What to say for the month of July? Try new gardening methods? Yes, though I was put into this situation sort of out of necessity. This June I endured a knee replacement surgery. I realized early that I would be unable to plant my 30 x 30 vegetable garden and maintain all my flowers containers. Last year having about 65 of them.
So, early on, before my surgery, I said, What is most important to my health and gardening happiness this year?
1. Start fewer seeds indoors. So, I will have less to care for once planted outside.
2. How will I care for them? Plant vegetables and flowers in containers, waist high that are easily assessable. Look for seeds or plants that are made for container gardening.
3. What are the best things about planting in containers? You can choose the best location to place them for maximum growth. You can control the amount of water, nutrients, and soil they are planted in. I was lucky enough to get my containers planted before my surgery with the help of many of you Horticultural society friends, which I greatly appreciate !!!
4. I thought about what I just had to have. Flowers for the hummingbirds that visit every year: Zinnias, pink salvia, Spanish flag vine, purple hyacinth vine. Plus, marigolds, calla lilies, and lobelia. Vegetables I couldn’t live without: Tomatoes, lettuce, cucumbers, summer squash, Swiss chard, parsley, string beans, eggplant, and peppers. Herbs, basil, parsley, oregano, and sage.
5. One big challenge was keeping them all safe from the rabbits, squirrels and chipmunks, which we have an abundance of this year. Now I’ll tell you about my successes and failures. I planted the lettuce in hanging baskets well off the ground. I put cages around all the other ones that were inviting the critters. They don’t like tomatoes, peppers, squash or cucumbers. So no cages are needed for them.
6. So far, the tomatoes, squash and cucumbers are doing the best. I have one tomato planted by my front door filled with hundreds of grape tomatoes almost red enough to pick. My 2 other tomatoes have large tomatoes forming on them now. The summer squash has produced 6 squashes .Today I picked my first cucumber. Most of my lettuce bolted because of the hot weather in June, which there was no way of controlling. My Swiss chard was directly sown in a tall container and didn’t all germinate, but I have some. My string beans rotted because of too much water. (My next-door neighbor watered for me the first 2 weeks I was home. I forgot to tell her not to water the beans every day.) It’s not too late to replant them.
7. So, what have I learned from this method: I’ve made things easier for myself as I age. Pay attention to what my body is telling me….. I can no longer do all I once did in the garden. Plant just enough for who I am feeding not the whole neighborhood. No need to have an in-ground garden for only 2 people. No worries from jumping worms and other pests using only good, bagged soil. I am allowed to water vegetables and flower containers regardless of water bans in our town on even days.
And finally, I am soooo appreciative of all the help from you, family and other friends during my time recovering from my surgery. I don’t know what I would have done without you all !!!! Sending of some of my summer squash, cucumbers and tomato.
What to say for the month of July? Try new gardening methods? Yes, though I was put into this situation sort of out of necessity. This June I endured a knee replacement surgery. I realized early that I would be unable to plant my 30 x 30 vegetable garden and maintain all my flowers containers. Last year having about 65 of them.
So, early on, before my surgery, I said, What is most important to my health and gardening happiness this year?
1. Start fewer seeds indoors. So, I will have less to care for once planted outside.
2. How will I care for them? Plant vegetables and flowers in containers, waist high that are easily assessable. Look for seeds or plants that are made for container gardening.
3. What are the best things about planting in containers? You can choose the best location to place them for maximum growth. You can control the amount of water, nutrients, and soil they are planted in. I was lucky enough to get my containers planted before my surgery with the help of many of you Horticultural society friends, which I greatly appreciate !!!
4. I thought about what I just had to have. Flowers for the hummingbirds that visit every year: Zinnias, pink salvia, Spanish flag vine, purple hyacinth vine. Plus, marigolds, calla lilies, and lobelia. Vegetables I couldn’t live without: Tomatoes, lettuce, cucumbers, summer squash, Swiss chard, parsley, string beans, eggplant, and peppers. Herbs, basil, parsley, oregano, and sage.
5. One big challenge was keeping them all safe from the rabbits, squirrels and chipmunks, which we have an abundance of this year. Now I’ll tell you about my successes and failures. I planted the lettuce in hanging baskets well off the ground. I put cages around all the other ones that were inviting the critters. They don’t like tomatoes, peppers, squash or cucumbers. So no cages are needed for them.
6. So far, the tomatoes, squash and cucumbers are doing the best. I have one tomato planted by my front door filled with hundreds of grape tomatoes almost red enough to pick. My 2 other tomatoes have large tomatoes forming on them now. The summer squash has produced 6 squashes .Today I picked my first cucumber. Most of my lettuce bolted because of the hot weather in June, which there was no way of controlling. My Swiss chard was directly sown in a tall container and didn’t all germinate, but I have some. My string beans rotted because of too much water. (My next-door neighbor watered for me the first 2 weeks I was home. I forgot to tell her not to water the beans every day.) It’s not too late to replant them.
7. So, what have I learned from this method: I’ve made things easier for myself as I age. Pay attention to what my body is telling me….. I can no longer do all I once did in the garden. Plant just enough for who I am feeding not the whole neighborhood. No need to have an in-ground garden for only 2 people. No worries from jumping worms and other pests using only good, bagged soil. I am allowed to water vegetables and flower containers regardless of water bans in our town on even days.
And finally, I am soooo appreciative of all the help from you, family and other friends during my time recovering from my surgery. I don’t know what I would have done without you all !!!! Sending of some of my summer squash, cucumbers and tomato.
JUNE 2024
1. Once the temps have stabilized, you can plant most everything now. But keep tuned to the weather. It’s not unheard of to still have a late frost.
2. Plants go into transplant shock went first planted even on cool cloudy days. To avoid this, give them a small dose of water-soluble fertilizer after you have wet the soil with plain water. Avoid planting on hot sunny days if you can. If you can’t, shade them with an umbrella. Don’t laugh. This is often done. I didn’t invent this method. It’s been around for quite a while. If planting in containers, you can move the container to a shady spot for a few days.
3. The best time to water your containers and garden is early in the morning. That’s when plants take up the most water.
4. To keep your annuals blooming all summer be sure to dead head past blooms. This can also give you a repeat bloom on some perennials if you dead head them early enough. I also use a bloom booster water soluble fertilizer for my annuals and vegetables every 2 weeks. Never increase the amount of fertilizer. Follow the label instructions.
5. Be on the lookout for harmful insects soon, especially aphids. Insecticidal soap has been greatly improved recently and is helpful. Do not apply it on sunny hot days. This can burn the plants' leaves. A brisk shower of water from your hose can also help wash away most insects.
6. You can put your house plants out for their summer vacation soon. But never in the direct sun. Direct sun can burn their leaves. They need time to adjust to the outside environment. A nice shady spot under a tree is perfect.
7. The rhododendrons and azaleas are blooming now in this area. After the bloom is finished, it’s time to apply Hollytone.
8. Don’t be surprised if your Cornus Kousa dogwood doesn’t bloom much this year. Neither of my 2 Kousas have many flowers on them.. They were magnificent last year. This year they’re taking a break. Not to worry This sometimes happens.
9. What common spice is a natural anti-fungal? Cinnamon. It can stop a fungus from growing on plants, especially seedlings and cuttings. Sprinkle it on the soil. Or as a spray. Boil 5 cinnamon sticks in one cup of water. Bring to a boil. Turn off the heat and let it steep till the water turns brown. Once cooled, put it in a spray bottle and spray on a plant that has a fungus infection. And finally, relax and enjoy your gardens. Sit and listen to the birds and look at the beautiful landscape. Don’t overdo it. Do little projects at a time. If you do too much at once, you lose your enthusiasm. I know that first hand.
1. Once the temps have stabilized, you can plant most everything now. But keep tuned to the weather. It’s not unheard of to still have a late frost.
2. Plants go into transplant shock went first planted even on cool cloudy days. To avoid this, give them a small dose of water-soluble fertilizer after you have wet the soil with plain water. Avoid planting on hot sunny days if you can. If you can’t, shade them with an umbrella. Don’t laugh. This is often done. I didn’t invent this method. It’s been around for quite a while. If planting in containers, you can move the container to a shady spot for a few days.
3. The best time to water your containers and garden is early in the morning. That’s when plants take up the most water.
4. To keep your annuals blooming all summer be sure to dead head past blooms. This can also give you a repeat bloom on some perennials if you dead head them early enough. I also use a bloom booster water soluble fertilizer for my annuals and vegetables every 2 weeks. Never increase the amount of fertilizer. Follow the label instructions.
5. Be on the lookout for harmful insects soon, especially aphids. Insecticidal soap has been greatly improved recently and is helpful. Do not apply it on sunny hot days. This can burn the plants' leaves. A brisk shower of water from your hose can also help wash away most insects.
6. You can put your house plants out for their summer vacation soon. But never in the direct sun. Direct sun can burn their leaves. They need time to adjust to the outside environment. A nice shady spot under a tree is perfect.
7. The rhododendrons and azaleas are blooming now in this area. After the bloom is finished, it’s time to apply Hollytone.
8. Don’t be surprised if your Cornus Kousa dogwood doesn’t bloom much this year. Neither of my 2 Kousas have many flowers on them.. They were magnificent last year. This year they’re taking a break. Not to worry This sometimes happens.
9. What common spice is a natural anti-fungal? Cinnamon. It can stop a fungus from growing on plants, especially seedlings and cuttings. Sprinkle it on the soil. Or as a spray. Boil 5 cinnamon sticks in one cup of water. Bring to a boil. Turn off the heat and let it steep till the water turns brown. Once cooled, put it in a spray bottle and spray on a plant that has a fungus infection. And finally, relax and enjoy your gardens. Sit and listen to the birds and look at the beautiful landscape. Don’t overdo it. Do little projects at a time. If you do too much at once, you lose your enthusiasm. I know that first hand.
MAY 2024
Because of all the rain and very mild winter, the spring flowers and trees are magnificent this year. The Cherry, Magnolia, early azalea, 'Cornell Pink’, ‘PJM’ Rhododendron, which was developed here in Massachusetts by Weston Nursery, and the forsythia are unbelievably beautiful. All the spring bulbs, especially the daffodils, are really putting on a show too. Care of these plants after they bloom is important.
1. Once the spring bulbs are finished blooming, be sure to cut off all the flowers that are spent, but not the leaves yet. If you haven’t fertilized them yet, do it now with Hollytone. The hardest part soon is leaving the leaves on till they ripen, (turn totally brown ) before cutting the leaves off. If done while the leaves are still green, you may not have any flowers next year. It is unsightly, but necessary. I don’t recommend braiding the leaves to keep them less unsightly as some people due. They don’t ripen properly that way.
2. Flowering tree and shrubs should be fertilized now also, if not all ready done with fertilizer such as Hollytone after the blooming is done. If you did it earlier, not to worry. It’s ok. Usually it is recommended to fertilize azaleas and rhododendron after they bloom.
3. if you are growing seedlings for yourself, or the plant sale on May 11, it’s good to give them a little dose of water soluble fertilizer, 1/4 teaspoon per quart of water. Jack’s 20-20-20. ( I’ve told you this before). Make sure the soil is damp before you fertilize.
It will cause burn to the leaves of your plant if you fertilize when your soil is dry. This is true all season long.
4. You should start to hardening off your seedlings now to get them ready to plant, or to be sold at the plant sale. Hardening off is done by exposing your seedlings to sun and wind outside a few hours a day for about a week, bringing them in and out each day. Planting time is usually two weeks after the last spring frost.
5. Keep an eye on the weather now. Planting tender annuals like impatiens, begonia, morning glories, etc, is way too early for some, and vegetables too. Tomatoes, squash, cucumbers, beans, peppers, and eggplant are too tender. But Swiss Chard, broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, spinach and lettuce can take a frost, but not a freeze. There is a difference between a frost and a freeze. A freeze will kill annual plants and flower buds on cherries and peaches and some apple blossoms. Again listen to the weather. The first day in the 70’s now is not the time to plant tender plants. They don’t like cold nights which produce cold soil. A good garden center will not release tender plants too early. The big box stores don’t care. (Again, I’ve told you this before.)
6. If you are growing hydrangeas that bloom on second year wood, this should be a year for a tremendous bloom with them because most of the canes have survived the winter. Hopefully the leaves appearing now will not be killed by a freeze.. fingers crossed !!!
7. I have had my mulch applied this week to my garden beds. What does mulch do for your garden? It keeps weeds down, conserves moisture. And as it decomposes, it adds humus to your soil. It also adds great visual appeal. Be sure you use good mulch, not dyed wood chips. I purchase naturally aged hemlock mulch delivered in bulk at a reputable trusted dealer. Not everyone uses mulch. There are many different methods used in gardening today. Do what ever is most comfortable for you.
Because of all the rain and very mild winter, the spring flowers and trees are magnificent this year. The Cherry, Magnolia, early azalea, 'Cornell Pink’, ‘PJM’ Rhododendron, which was developed here in Massachusetts by Weston Nursery, and the forsythia are unbelievably beautiful. All the spring bulbs, especially the daffodils, are really putting on a show too. Care of these plants after they bloom is important.
1. Once the spring bulbs are finished blooming, be sure to cut off all the flowers that are spent, but not the leaves yet. If you haven’t fertilized them yet, do it now with Hollytone. The hardest part soon is leaving the leaves on till they ripen, (turn totally brown ) before cutting the leaves off. If done while the leaves are still green, you may not have any flowers next year. It is unsightly, but necessary. I don’t recommend braiding the leaves to keep them less unsightly as some people due. They don’t ripen properly that way.
2. Flowering tree and shrubs should be fertilized now also, if not all ready done with fertilizer such as Hollytone after the blooming is done. If you did it earlier, not to worry. It’s ok. Usually it is recommended to fertilize azaleas and rhododendron after they bloom.
3. if you are growing seedlings for yourself, or the plant sale on May 11, it’s good to give them a little dose of water soluble fertilizer, 1/4 teaspoon per quart of water. Jack’s 20-20-20. ( I’ve told you this before). Make sure the soil is damp before you fertilize.
It will cause burn to the leaves of your plant if you fertilize when your soil is dry. This is true all season long.
4. You should start to hardening off your seedlings now to get them ready to plant, or to be sold at the plant sale. Hardening off is done by exposing your seedlings to sun and wind outside a few hours a day for about a week, bringing them in and out each day. Planting time is usually two weeks after the last spring frost.
5. Keep an eye on the weather now. Planting tender annuals like impatiens, begonia, morning glories, etc, is way too early for some, and vegetables too. Tomatoes, squash, cucumbers, beans, peppers, and eggplant are too tender. But Swiss Chard, broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, spinach and lettuce can take a frost, but not a freeze. There is a difference between a frost and a freeze. A freeze will kill annual plants and flower buds on cherries and peaches and some apple blossoms. Again listen to the weather. The first day in the 70’s now is not the time to plant tender plants. They don’t like cold nights which produce cold soil. A good garden center will not release tender plants too early. The big box stores don’t care. (Again, I’ve told you this before.)
6. If you are growing hydrangeas that bloom on second year wood, this should be a year for a tremendous bloom with them because most of the canes have survived the winter. Hopefully the leaves appearing now will not be killed by a freeze.. fingers crossed !!!
7. I have had my mulch applied this week to my garden beds. What does mulch do for your garden? It keeps weeds down, conserves moisture. And as it decomposes, it adds humus to your soil. It also adds great visual appeal. Be sure you use good mulch, not dyed wood chips. I purchase naturally aged hemlock mulch delivered in bulk at a reputable trusted dealer. Not everyone uses mulch. There are many different methods used in gardening today. Do what ever is most comfortable for you.
APRIL 2024
1. If you haven’t already cut back all your perennials, including perennial grasses, from last year, now is the time to do it.
2. Once that is done, you can gently rake out all the debris in your perennial beds when the soil dries out from all the rain we’ve been having.
3. Holly-tone should now be spread all around your beds and around all your shrubs and trees following the instructions on each bag of this organic fertilizer. Listed on the bag are many and most of all the plants we grow in our New England gardens.
4. Put out your cleaned birdhouses and birdbaths. Clean your bird feeders too. It’s a little early to put out the hummingbird feeders and the grape jelly for the Orioles. But keep your eye peeled for their arrival.
5. If you’re growing plants for our annual plant sale on May 11th (at Senior Center this year), and your plants have grown 2 sets of true leaves, it’s time to put them in a bigger cell pack or a small pot. You can also start feeding them a very diluted water-soluble fertilizer. Jack’s 20-20-20 is a good one not Miracle Grow. It is high in nitrogen and not balanced with the other nutrients. About 1/2 teaspoon per quart of water. If you are growing them organically, I recommend Neptune's Harvest fertilizer, diluted also.
6. Start to look at your perennials that are ready to be dug up or divided for our plant sale or yourself. Perennials that have thinned out in the center usually need to be divided. You can refer to the handouts given at the February meeting preparing them for the sale. Use a sterile potting mix like Pro Mix not your garden soil to pot them up.
7. If you would like to get the facts and information on the jumping worms, Google U.MASS facts and information on jumping worms. Read the whole article. It’s very informative. Great ways to see if they are present in your soil and some preventatives.
My daffodils are about to bloom. Yippee!!! Hopefully we won’t get any more snow. Keep an eye on the weather. This is New England, and anything goes. I remember the April snowstorm we had a few years ago !!!
1. If you haven’t already cut back all your perennials, including perennial grasses, from last year, now is the time to do it.
2. Once that is done, you can gently rake out all the debris in your perennial beds when the soil dries out from all the rain we’ve been having.
3. Holly-tone should now be spread all around your beds and around all your shrubs and trees following the instructions on each bag of this organic fertilizer. Listed on the bag are many and most of all the plants we grow in our New England gardens.
4. Put out your cleaned birdhouses and birdbaths. Clean your bird feeders too. It’s a little early to put out the hummingbird feeders and the grape jelly for the Orioles. But keep your eye peeled for their arrival.
5. If you’re growing plants for our annual plant sale on May 11th (at Senior Center this year), and your plants have grown 2 sets of true leaves, it’s time to put them in a bigger cell pack or a small pot. You can also start feeding them a very diluted water-soluble fertilizer. Jack’s 20-20-20 is a good one not Miracle Grow. It is high in nitrogen and not balanced with the other nutrients. About 1/2 teaspoon per quart of water. If you are growing them organically, I recommend Neptune's Harvest fertilizer, diluted also.
6. Start to look at your perennials that are ready to be dug up or divided for our plant sale or yourself. Perennials that have thinned out in the center usually need to be divided. You can refer to the handouts given at the February meeting preparing them for the sale. Use a sterile potting mix like Pro Mix not your garden soil to pot them up.
7. If you would like to get the facts and information on the jumping worms, Google U.MASS facts and information on jumping worms. Read the whole article. It’s very informative. Great ways to see if they are present in your soil and some preventatives.
My daffodils are about to bloom. Yippee!!! Hopefully we won’t get any more snow. Keep an eye on the weather. This is New England, and anything goes. I remember the April snowstorm we had a few years ago !!!
MARCH 2024
Are you all excitedly awaiting the official arrival of Spring. I am !!!!
1. Try something new this year. I’m going to grow most of my vegetables and herbs in containers this year instead of in my garden plots. They will be elevated too for easy maintenance. I tried a few last year and had great success. I’ll use PRO MIX instead of garden soil in my containers to avoid jumping worms or any other pathogens. PRO MIX is a combination of peat moss and perlite. It is sterile, perfect for containers.
2. It’s time to start your seeds indoors, especially the parsley seeds and tomato seeds for the plant sale in May that were given to you at the February meeting. Follow the hand out instructions you received at that meeting.
3. Though it may be a little early to do much cleaning up outside, because we could still get snow, you can still do some picking up of branches, etc. It is too soon to start raking though. Even though it hasn’t been that cold, there is still some permafrost in the ground. We must wait for a complete thawing to rake. The ground has to be much drier than it is now. You’ll risk pulling up your grass if you rake too soon.
4. You can check trees and shrubs for torn or broken branches. Make a clean sharp cut at the break with your pruning shears. A ragged tear or break is a perfect place for harmful insects to lay their eggs. Make sure all your garden tools are clean, disinfected and sharp before using. If pruning away diseased branches, it’s very important to disinfect your pruners afterwards each cut. You don’t want to spread any diseases to the rest of the plant or any other plants. This can be easily done by dipping the pruners into a solution of bleachy water. Be sure to wipe the pruners dry. A penny’s worth of prevention is worth a pound of cure.” Did I get that right?
5. If you are planning to divide plants, do it as early as possible when the soil is completely thawed.
6. Beware of plants for sale that are way ahead in growth than the ones in our area. Big box stores are known for bringing in plants in bloom or leafed out that have been grown in a warmer climate. This may entice you to buy too early. It really bothers me to see folks leaving a store with tender plants that shouldn’t be planted yet. If we have a late frost, the tender new growth is killed. So you’ll set back your new plants or sometimes kill them. One or two warm days in early spring doesn’t help the situation. People think it’s time to plant, but it really isn’t. Buying at a reputable nursery is the best idea even though you may pay a little more, the plants are usually guaranteed. A good nursery will not sell you plants that aren’t ready to be planted in our area. If you must plant early, keep an eye on the temperatures, especially at night. Covering early planted specimens will work if a frost is predicted . But remember to take the covers off at day break or else you can bake your plant once the sun is on it. Cloth covers work better than plastic for a cover. More about outside planting times will be in my April hints.
6. If you’ve noticed that your Cornus Kousa dogwood, native of China, has no flower buds this year, but It bloomed profusely last year, don’t worry. It’s ok…. This is the nature of that species of dogwood. My Massachusetts native Cornus Florida dogwood is covered with buds now. Cornus Florida is its botanical name. Florida in Latin translates to “flowery”. It has nothing to do with the state of Florida. Native plants usually do much better than imports.
7. Make a plan for your gardens this spring on paper. And a time table to put it into action. Do small areas a little at a time. Thus, this won’t overwhelm you, and take away your enthusiasm. Work early when temperatures are cool, better for you and your plants.
Photos: primroses and seedlings growing under lights.
Are you all excitedly awaiting the official arrival of Spring. I am !!!!
1. Try something new this year. I’m going to grow most of my vegetables and herbs in containers this year instead of in my garden plots. They will be elevated too for easy maintenance. I tried a few last year and had great success. I’ll use PRO MIX instead of garden soil in my containers to avoid jumping worms or any other pathogens. PRO MIX is a combination of peat moss and perlite. It is sterile, perfect for containers.
2. It’s time to start your seeds indoors, especially the parsley seeds and tomato seeds for the plant sale in May that were given to you at the February meeting. Follow the hand out instructions you received at that meeting.
3. Though it may be a little early to do much cleaning up outside, because we could still get snow, you can still do some picking up of branches, etc. It is too soon to start raking though. Even though it hasn’t been that cold, there is still some permafrost in the ground. We must wait for a complete thawing to rake. The ground has to be much drier than it is now. You’ll risk pulling up your grass if you rake too soon.
4. You can check trees and shrubs for torn or broken branches. Make a clean sharp cut at the break with your pruning shears. A ragged tear or break is a perfect place for harmful insects to lay their eggs. Make sure all your garden tools are clean, disinfected and sharp before using. If pruning away diseased branches, it’s very important to disinfect your pruners afterwards each cut. You don’t want to spread any diseases to the rest of the plant or any other plants. This can be easily done by dipping the pruners into a solution of bleachy water. Be sure to wipe the pruners dry. A penny’s worth of prevention is worth a pound of cure.” Did I get that right?
5. If you are planning to divide plants, do it as early as possible when the soil is completely thawed.
6. Beware of plants for sale that are way ahead in growth than the ones in our area. Big box stores are known for bringing in plants in bloom or leafed out that have been grown in a warmer climate. This may entice you to buy too early. It really bothers me to see folks leaving a store with tender plants that shouldn’t be planted yet. If we have a late frost, the tender new growth is killed. So you’ll set back your new plants or sometimes kill them. One or two warm days in early spring doesn’t help the situation. People think it’s time to plant, but it really isn’t. Buying at a reputable nursery is the best idea even though you may pay a little more, the plants are usually guaranteed. A good nursery will not sell you plants that aren’t ready to be planted in our area. If you must plant early, keep an eye on the temperatures, especially at night. Covering early planted specimens will work if a frost is predicted . But remember to take the covers off at day break or else you can bake your plant once the sun is on it. Cloth covers work better than plastic for a cover. More about outside planting times will be in my April hints.
6. If you’ve noticed that your Cornus Kousa dogwood, native of China, has no flower buds this year, but It bloomed profusely last year, don’t worry. It’s ok…. This is the nature of that species of dogwood. My Massachusetts native Cornus Florida dogwood is covered with buds now. Cornus Florida is its botanical name. Florida in Latin translates to “flowery”. It has nothing to do with the state of Florida. Native plants usually do much better than imports.
7. Make a plan for your gardens this spring on paper. And a time table to put it into action. Do small areas a little at a time. Thus, this won’t overwhelm you, and take away your enthusiasm. Work early when temperatures are cool, better for you and your plants.
Photos: primroses and seedlings growing under lights.
FEBRUARY 2024
I hope you are all well. January is a hard month for me. So glad it’s gone. We probably have at least six more weeks of winter weather ahead of us. How do gardeners survive the winter weather in New England? Here are some suggestions to ward off the winter blues.
1. Get out in the sun as much as possible. If it’s too cold, sit inside by a sunny window. Watching the birds at the feeder is great entertainment.
2. Visit a local greenhouse or botanical garden. Tower Hill in Boylston is a great one. Their Camellias are in bloom now. They have a wonderful cafe with great food too. Looking at color and feeling the warmth lifts your spirits.
3. Having flowering house plants at home will help too. I have an amaryllis, anthurium and a poinsettia blooming now and fresh flowers on my kitchen table. My orchards are putting out buds and will bloom soon. Can’t wait to see them.
4. If you can do it, take a trip somewhere warm and sunny. It’s the best medicine. Any getaway is great for a change of scenery. You come home with a whole new perspective.
5. Read a good book.
6. Go over last month’s hints which are still relevant.
7. Drop a note or card to someone you haven’t heard from in a while. Don’t we all love getting real mail? Make a phone call to someone you miss. It’s so much more personal than a text or an e-mail. The actual sound of a person’s voice is very heartwarming.
8. Take a dear friend or favorite relative out to a movie and dinner. We have great restaurants so close.
9. Bake some cookies and share them with family and friends. (But be sure to save some for yourself !)
Below: Lego bouquet from my grandsons. 996 pieces they put together for me.
I hope you are all well. January is a hard month for me. So glad it’s gone. We probably have at least six more weeks of winter weather ahead of us. How do gardeners survive the winter weather in New England? Here are some suggestions to ward off the winter blues.
1. Get out in the sun as much as possible. If it’s too cold, sit inside by a sunny window. Watching the birds at the feeder is great entertainment.
2. Visit a local greenhouse or botanical garden. Tower Hill in Boylston is a great one. Their Camellias are in bloom now. They have a wonderful cafe with great food too. Looking at color and feeling the warmth lifts your spirits.
3. Having flowering house plants at home will help too. I have an amaryllis, anthurium and a poinsettia blooming now and fresh flowers on my kitchen table. My orchards are putting out buds and will bloom soon. Can’t wait to see them.
4. If you can do it, take a trip somewhere warm and sunny. It’s the best medicine. Any getaway is great for a change of scenery. You come home with a whole new perspective.
5. Read a good book.
6. Go over last month’s hints which are still relevant.
7. Drop a note or card to someone you haven’t heard from in a while. Don’t we all love getting real mail? Make a phone call to someone you miss. It’s so much more personal than a text or an e-mail. The actual sound of a person’s voice is very heartwarming.
8. Take a dear friend or favorite relative out to a movie and dinner. We have great restaurants so close.
9. Bake some cookies and share them with family and friends. (But be sure to save some for yourself !)
Below: Lego bouquet from my grandsons. 996 pieces they put together for me.
JANUARY 2024
Happy New Year to you all !!!! I hope you all had a wonderful holiday season. Now that the festivities are over, it’s time to relax and enjoy what Mother Nature sends our way. So far we have had a relatively mild winter. Don’t hold your breath. We live in New England and you know what that means..
1. My daffodils are popping up early again this year. Not to worry. They’ll stop growing once the temperatures get colder. It won’t hurt them. One way to prevent that is to mulch your beds. That will stabilize the ground temperature from fluctuating so much. I didn’t do it, sorry to say.
2. Check over your garden tools and other supplies. Repair and replenish what’s needed. Stores will be stocking up supplies soon, and there will be plenty, so don’t wait till the last minute.
3, Check your garden journal to see what worked and didn’t last season. Think about what you would like to try differently this year. It makes gardening more fun for me and it’s good to be imaginative. It keeps us on our toes. I am going to grow more vegetables in containers this year. I tried a few last year and had good luck. There are only 2 of us now, and I don’t need a large veggie garden anymore. I have been having a problem with blights (a fungus disease) the last few years. It’s very hard to control, and is soil and air born. One way is to prevent this is to sterilize your soil. Very hard to do in a large garden. One method that is successful is to cover the garden with a solid tarp for the season. The sun will heat the soil under the tarp and kill any diseases so I’m told.
4. This is a good time to peruse any seed catalogs you may have received. Check out the new introductions, and order any if you want to try to start them inside.
5. We will be talking about how to prepare for our up coming plant sale in May at our February meeting. For instance, alternative ways to contribute if you don’t have a perennial garden. How to start seeds indoors for the sale at the plant sale, or for your self. And how to divide your plants and make them ready for the sale. Also we looking for any good hints you may have too.
So, we’ll see you in February, as we don’t have a January meeting. Stay warm and cosy till then.
Happy New Year to you all !!!! I hope you all had a wonderful holiday season. Now that the festivities are over, it’s time to relax and enjoy what Mother Nature sends our way. So far we have had a relatively mild winter. Don’t hold your breath. We live in New England and you know what that means..
1. My daffodils are popping up early again this year. Not to worry. They’ll stop growing once the temperatures get colder. It won’t hurt them. One way to prevent that is to mulch your beds. That will stabilize the ground temperature from fluctuating so much. I didn’t do it, sorry to say.
2. Check over your garden tools and other supplies. Repair and replenish what’s needed. Stores will be stocking up supplies soon, and there will be plenty, so don’t wait till the last minute.
3, Check your garden journal to see what worked and didn’t last season. Think about what you would like to try differently this year. It makes gardening more fun for me and it’s good to be imaginative. It keeps us on our toes. I am going to grow more vegetables in containers this year. I tried a few last year and had good luck. There are only 2 of us now, and I don’t need a large veggie garden anymore. I have been having a problem with blights (a fungus disease) the last few years. It’s very hard to control, and is soil and air born. One way is to prevent this is to sterilize your soil. Very hard to do in a large garden. One method that is successful is to cover the garden with a solid tarp for the season. The sun will heat the soil under the tarp and kill any diseases so I’m told.
4. This is a good time to peruse any seed catalogs you may have received. Check out the new introductions, and order any if you want to try to start them inside.
5. We will be talking about how to prepare for our up coming plant sale in May at our February meeting. For instance, alternative ways to contribute if you don’t have a perennial garden. How to start seeds indoors for the sale at the plant sale, or for your self. And how to divide your plants and make them ready for the sale. Also we looking for any good hints you may have too.
So, we’ll see you in February, as we don’t have a January meeting. Stay warm and cosy till then.
DECEMBER 2023
1. Have you noticed how dry some of the greens are this year? They are picked in late summer and early fall, no wonder. I had a hard time finding a fresh wreath the other day. What I do before I use any fresh greens or wreaths is wet them well outside with cool water, then place them in a sealed plastic bag overnight in the shade or in an unheated shed. Don’t let them freeze . This will help them rehydrate. The next day I let them dry completely. After they are dry and with the outside temp being 40* or higher, I spray them with a product called “Wilt Pruf.” It will keep them from drying out again. It can be used on your fresh Christmas trees as well as tender shrubs and evergreens growing outside. Especially boxwood. It comes ready to use spray bottle. If you cut greens from your garden, follow the same procedure. Photo included.
2. When buying a fresh tree, make sure you make a fresh cut, taking about 1 to 2 inches off the bottom of the trunk before bringing it inside. Place it in a firm stand with tepid water. This will allow water to flow freely up the tree. And remember to water it everyday. If the tree is out of water, a seal will form on the bottom of the trunk and it will no longer absorb any water.
3. When purchasing Christmas plants, make sure they are covered when you go to your car. And don’t leave them in the car very long. Most holiday plants are tropical in nature. Especially poinsettias. They are native of Mexico. And discovered by Joel Poinsett, ambassador to Mexico in the 1800s. They don’t like a draft or a cool house. ( I say this every year to remind members and give new members of a little history.) If you have a cool house, a cyclamen plant is ideal. They have very attractive leaves and come in many shades of red, pink, and white. They don’t mind being cooler than most other plants. They are native to the east Mediterranean basin and the Pacific Northwest. Christmas cactus is another good plant that doesn't mind a cool house. They are native to the mountains of southern Brazil, shady, moist, humid and cool forests.
4. One of the most important hints is to remember is don’t over do it. Take your time and enjoy the holidays. Spending time with friends and family is the most important. So what if your decorations aren't quite finished or you haven’t had time to clean the house. Being together will be remembered far sooner than a spotless house or a perfect tree. HAPPY HOLIDAYS
1. Have you noticed how dry some of the greens are this year? They are picked in late summer and early fall, no wonder. I had a hard time finding a fresh wreath the other day. What I do before I use any fresh greens or wreaths is wet them well outside with cool water, then place them in a sealed plastic bag overnight in the shade or in an unheated shed. Don’t let them freeze . This will help them rehydrate. The next day I let them dry completely. After they are dry and with the outside temp being 40* or higher, I spray them with a product called “Wilt Pruf.” It will keep them from drying out again. It can be used on your fresh Christmas trees as well as tender shrubs and evergreens growing outside. Especially boxwood. It comes ready to use spray bottle. If you cut greens from your garden, follow the same procedure. Photo included.
2. When buying a fresh tree, make sure you make a fresh cut, taking about 1 to 2 inches off the bottom of the trunk before bringing it inside. Place it in a firm stand with tepid water. This will allow water to flow freely up the tree. And remember to water it everyday. If the tree is out of water, a seal will form on the bottom of the trunk and it will no longer absorb any water.
3. When purchasing Christmas plants, make sure they are covered when you go to your car. And don’t leave them in the car very long. Most holiday plants are tropical in nature. Especially poinsettias. They are native of Mexico. And discovered by Joel Poinsett, ambassador to Mexico in the 1800s. They don’t like a draft or a cool house. ( I say this every year to remind members and give new members of a little history.) If you have a cool house, a cyclamen plant is ideal. They have very attractive leaves and come in many shades of red, pink, and white. They don’t mind being cooler than most other plants. They are native to the east Mediterranean basin and the Pacific Northwest. Christmas cactus is another good plant that doesn't mind a cool house. They are native to the mountains of southern Brazil, shady, moist, humid and cool forests.
4. One of the most important hints is to remember is don’t over do it. Take your time and enjoy the holidays. Spending time with friends and family is the most important. So what if your decorations aren't quite finished or you haven’t had time to clean the house. Being together will be remembered far sooner than a spotless house or a perfect tree. HAPPY HOLIDAYS
NOVEMBER 2023
Hello Members, Can you believe November is here already? We’ve had a very interesting season !?!? All the rain was good for some plants. Pumpkins loved it. There was bumper crop. At the Topsfield fair this year, the winner of the giant pumpkin contest weighed 2,198 lbs. and the prize was $6,500. Wow !!!! Maybe we should all try our hand at growing one next year? Very difficult to do though. So what should we be doing now?
1. If you haven’t already done so, time to dig up calla lilies, glads, canna, dahlias, elephant ears, and tuberous begonias. Wash off all soil, and let them dry before storing them in a paper bag or old onion sack. Store them in a cool place that won’t freeze.
2. There are 2 theories about this next hint. Cutting your perennials to the ground, or leave them as is for the winter. I prefer the first method. We have lots of critters in our yard who have lived in my perennial gardens through the winter. Subsequently, they had a feast munching on my prize perennials, especially my hostas and grasses. Therefore, I cut my perennials to the ground in the late fall after a frost. You must do what is best for you. Some say leaving the growth tall provides shelter for the birds and offers them food. We take very good care of the birds all seasons, providing food, shelter and water. They in turn offer entertainment watching them feed during the winter months. Now is time to clean out your bird houses and store them for the winter unless some are still being used.
3. If you have tender evergreen shrubs like boxwood, it’s a good idea to cover them with burlap to prepare them for the freezing winter winds. I think we still have some burlap bags available through a member, Kathy Pischke-Winn. She in the program book if you want some bags. If the bags aren’t available, you can purchase burlap at most garden centers. Also, spraying your shrubs with Wilt Proof, an anti-desiccant, will protect them from the winter winds. It must be applied at 40° or above, and comes in a ready to use spray container.
4. Kathy is also looking for greens for our winter workshop in December. You can cut them before Thanksgiving for our meeting or for yourself. Put them in a black plastic garbage bag, IN THE SHADE, spraying them with water occasionally. And sealing the bag closed. Be sure to check on them. Do not let them dry out.
5. It’s not too late to plant your spring bulbs before the ground freezes. Make sure you water them well when planting. Good luck.
Hello Members, Can you believe November is here already? We’ve had a very interesting season !?!? All the rain was good for some plants. Pumpkins loved it. There was bumper crop. At the Topsfield fair this year, the winner of the giant pumpkin contest weighed 2,198 lbs. and the prize was $6,500. Wow !!!! Maybe we should all try our hand at growing one next year? Very difficult to do though. So what should we be doing now?
1. If you haven’t already done so, time to dig up calla lilies, glads, canna, dahlias, elephant ears, and tuberous begonias. Wash off all soil, and let them dry before storing them in a paper bag or old onion sack. Store them in a cool place that won’t freeze.
2. There are 2 theories about this next hint. Cutting your perennials to the ground, or leave them as is for the winter. I prefer the first method. We have lots of critters in our yard who have lived in my perennial gardens through the winter. Subsequently, they had a feast munching on my prize perennials, especially my hostas and grasses. Therefore, I cut my perennials to the ground in the late fall after a frost. You must do what is best for you. Some say leaving the growth tall provides shelter for the birds and offers them food. We take very good care of the birds all seasons, providing food, shelter and water. They in turn offer entertainment watching them feed during the winter months. Now is time to clean out your bird houses and store them for the winter unless some are still being used.
3. If you have tender evergreen shrubs like boxwood, it’s a good idea to cover them with burlap to prepare them for the freezing winter winds. I think we still have some burlap bags available through a member, Kathy Pischke-Winn. She in the program book if you want some bags. If the bags aren’t available, you can purchase burlap at most garden centers. Also, spraying your shrubs with Wilt Proof, an anti-desiccant, will protect them from the winter winds. It must be applied at 40° or above, and comes in a ready to use spray container.
4. Kathy is also looking for greens for our winter workshop in December. You can cut them before Thanksgiving for our meeting or for yourself. Put them in a black plastic garbage bag, IN THE SHADE, spraying them with water occasionally. And sealing the bag closed. Be sure to check on them. Do not let them dry out.
5. It’s not too late to plant your spring bulbs before the ground freezes. Make sure you water them well when planting. Good luck.
OCTOBER 2023
Hi Members, I hope everyone is doing well and ready for a gorgeous fall season! I don’t know about you, but I’m glad to see the end of summer finally here. I thought I would share with you some of my successes and failures. It has been the poorest of all growing seasons for me this year. With a few exceptions. My Cornus Kousa dogwood was magnificent this spring. The flowers lasted way into July. It is now showing its fruit. They look like strawberries, thus another name for it is the “Strawberry Tree”. I will send a photo.
To my great dismay, I lost my contorted hazelnut tree. Also called Harry Lauder‘s walking stick. It contracted eastern Filbert blight. There is no cure. It was a beautiful specimen, 20 years old.
My veggie garden was a disaster. The worse tomatoes I’ve ever had. Swiss chard was also a flop. The green and yellow beans were good though. And I experimented growing peppers and eggplant in a container for a change. They did much better than the ones in the ground. I have exceptionally wet soil. So all my beds are raised including the vegetable garden. But it didn’t make any difference this year with all the rain. There are places still very wet.
So now down to business.
1. When planting your bulbs, choose a spot that is well drained. Planting in wet soil will cause the bulbs to rot. I only plant daffodils and hyacinths. They won’t be bothered by all the squirrels. Tulips are caviar for squirrels. There is still time to plant bulbs, mums, fall asters and pansies.
2. A light dose of Hollytone sprinkled around your trees, shrubs, perennials and established spring bulbs will be very beneficial now.
3. If you haven’t done it already, it’s time to bring in the house plants you put out for the summer. Keep them separated from all the plants that didn’t go out. They may have picked up bugs and diseases while outside. You don’t want to infect your other plants. They will have a period of adjustment to go through coming in. Yellow and dropping leaves. Not to worry, they will adjust. Let up on your watering them too. They don’t need as much water as they did while outside exposed to the wind and sun.
So, I hope sharing some of my successes and failures has brought you some comfort knowing not everything goes well every year when being a gardener. Have hope, like we say about the Red Sox, “There’s always next year.” Enjoy seeing all the beautiful fall color coming soon. Be sure to take in the Flower Barn at the Topsfield Fair this week. Photos: Cornus Kousa dogwood in fruit. SunPatiens in full bloom, my best flowering annual of the summer.
Hi Members, I hope everyone is doing well and ready for a gorgeous fall season! I don’t know about you, but I’m glad to see the end of summer finally here. I thought I would share with you some of my successes and failures. It has been the poorest of all growing seasons for me this year. With a few exceptions. My Cornus Kousa dogwood was magnificent this spring. The flowers lasted way into July. It is now showing its fruit. They look like strawberries, thus another name for it is the “Strawberry Tree”. I will send a photo.
To my great dismay, I lost my contorted hazelnut tree. Also called Harry Lauder‘s walking stick. It contracted eastern Filbert blight. There is no cure. It was a beautiful specimen, 20 years old.
My veggie garden was a disaster. The worse tomatoes I’ve ever had. Swiss chard was also a flop. The green and yellow beans were good though. And I experimented growing peppers and eggplant in a container for a change. They did much better than the ones in the ground. I have exceptionally wet soil. So all my beds are raised including the vegetable garden. But it didn’t make any difference this year with all the rain. There are places still very wet.
So now down to business.
1. When planting your bulbs, choose a spot that is well drained. Planting in wet soil will cause the bulbs to rot. I only plant daffodils and hyacinths. They won’t be bothered by all the squirrels. Tulips are caviar for squirrels. There is still time to plant bulbs, mums, fall asters and pansies.
2. A light dose of Hollytone sprinkled around your trees, shrubs, perennials and established spring bulbs will be very beneficial now.
3. If you haven’t done it already, it’s time to bring in the house plants you put out for the summer. Keep them separated from all the plants that didn’t go out. They may have picked up bugs and diseases while outside. You don’t want to infect your other plants. They will have a period of adjustment to go through coming in. Yellow and dropping leaves. Not to worry, they will adjust. Let up on your watering them too. They don’t need as much water as they did while outside exposed to the wind and sun.
So, I hope sharing some of my successes and failures has brought you some comfort knowing not everything goes well every year when being a gardener. Have hope, like we say about the Red Sox, “There’s always next year.” Enjoy seeing all the beautiful fall color coming soon. Be sure to take in the Flower Barn at the Topsfield Fair this week. Photos: Cornus Kousa dogwood in fruit. SunPatiens in full bloom, my best flowering annual of the summer.
SEPTEMBER 2023
Hello members, I hope all is well with you. It’s time to think about what we should be doing in our gardens now, but I have decided to talk about something different this time, but important. Most of my hints for August still apply to September.
1. What is the difference between a genetically modified organism, a GMO or NON- GMO. A GMO product has had its DNA changed in the laboratory. Why is this done? Simply put, it is done for better production, as in a larger yield, resistance to diseases, and to protect the plants and animals from insect infestation and more I’m sure. Is it good or bad for us? It can be both. Some research has shown GMO products ‘can’ reduce the ability for us to absorb antibiotics. Do your research. If you want to avoid GMO products look for the labels that say NON-GMO.
2. How does this relate to organically grown products? Organically grown products must conform to USDA strict standards that require it not using any pesticides, herbicides, chemically produced fertilizers, hormones, or supplements. And acceptable farming methods. Look for the USDA Organic label. All organic products must be NON-GMO to conform to strict organic USDA standards. Becoming an organic farm takes years to achieve and is very costly for the farmer, thus the increase in prices. Soil is tested, seed is tested. Farming methods are reviewed. Near by farms are checked for air drift of elements that can affect the organic farm, etc.
4. Are the benefits of organic foods, and NON-GMO products worth the expense and the attention? It’s up to you to decide.
5. Once you get accustomed to looking for these labels, it won’t take you long to spot them. Not all NON-GMO products are organic.
I hope this has been helpful and not too confusing for you. Enough !!! I’m off my soapbox for now.
Hello members, I hope all is well with you. It’s time to think about what we should be doing in our gardens now, but I have decided to talk about something different this time, but important. Most of my hints for August still apply to September.
1. What is the difference between a genetically modified organism, a GMO or NON- GMO. A GMO product has had its DNA changed in the laboratory. Why is this done? Simply put, it is done for better production, as in a larger yield, resistance to diseases, and to protect the plants and animals from insect infestation and more I’m sure. Is it good or bad for us? It can be both. Some research has shown GMO products ‘can’ reduce the ability for us to absorb antibiotics. Do your research. If you want to avoid GMO products look for the labels that say NON-GMO.
2. How does this relate to organically grown products? Organically grown products must conform to USDA strict standards that require it not using any pesticides, herbicides, chemically produced fertilizers, hormones, or supplements. And acceptable farming methods. Look for the USDA Organic label. All organic products must be NON-GMO to conform to strict organic USDA standards. Becoming an organic farm takes years to achieve and is very costly for the farmer, thus the increase in prices. Soil is tested, seed is tested. Farming methods are reviewed. Near by farms are checked for air drift of elements that can affect the organic farm, etc.
4. Are the benefits of organic foods, and NON-GMO products worth the expense and the attention? It’s up to you to decide.
5. Once you get accustomed to looking for these labels, it won’t take you long to spot them. Not all NON-GMO products are organic.
I hope this has been helpful and not too confusing for you. Enough !!! I’m off my soapbox for now.
AUGUST 2023
Hi Members, August is finally here. The month of August was named after the Roman emperor Augustus Caesar by himself….Just thought you would like to know. Ok, down to business. This summer we’ve had many challenges. I declare it the summer of rabbits, rain, and weeds. The rabbits in our yard have been eating things they never ate before. Like marigolds, hostas and portulacas. Oh, the life of a gardener can be very frustrating.
1. Because of all the rain, everything that likes it wet has thrived. So you may need to cut back leggy annuals. To encourage new growth, apply a water soluble fertilizer high in phosphorus. It usually called “Bloom Booster.” The numbers on the package will look like this - 10-50-10. The phosphorus being the middle number is highest. Again, remember what I said last month about fertilizing all your plants including vegetables, because of all the rain draining the soil of vital nutrients.
2. In August we begin to see mums, pansies, ornamental cabbage, asters, and kale coming into the market place. If you buy the ones with more buds closed than open, they last longer. Also if you plant them in the ground early, they usually repeat next year. But not the cabbage and kale. Once they finish blooming, be sure to deadhead them.
3. As the day light hours decrease, and the days start to cool, write down in your plant journal all your successes and disappointments. Look for plants that might need to be divided next spring for yourself and for our plant sale. For me, it has been a difficult summer in some ways with my vegetable garden. Things that usually do well, have not done so this year. Kay, sera sera... There’s always the farm stands. And we have many to choose from.
4. We are so fortunate to live in one of the most beautiful regions of New England. But things are changing all around us. Be mindful of what we can do to protect our environment. Keep an eye to the sky each day. A few days ago , 2 houses from us, we had an unpredicted micro burst on our street. A large tree came down with wires on a car with people in it. No one was hurt fortunately, but it was very scary. Enjoy the rest of the summer.
Photos: Water hyacinth in bloom and lady’s mantle after a rain.
Hi Members, August is finally here. The month of August was named after the Roman emperor Augustus Caesar by himself….Just thought you would like to know. Ok, down to business. This summer we’ve had many challenges. I declare it the summer of rabbits, rain, and weeds. The rabbits in our yard have been eating things they never ate before. Like marigolds, hostas and portulacas. Oh, the life of a gardener can be very frustrating.
1. Because of all the rain, everything that likes it wet has thrived. So you may need to cut back leggy annuals. To encourage new growth, apply a water soluble fertilizer high in phosphorus. It usually called “Bloom Booster.” The numbers on the package will look like this - 10-50-10. The phosphorus being the middle number is highest. Again, remember what I said last month about fertilizing all your plants including vegetables, because of all the rain draining the soil of vital nutrients.
2. In August we begin to see mums, pansies, ornamental cabbage, asters, and kale coming into the market place. If you buy the ones with more buds closed than open, they last longer. Also if you plant them in the ground early, they usually repeat next year. But not the cabbage and kale. Once they finish blooming, be sure to deadhead them.
3. As the day light hours decrease, and the days start to cool, write down in your plant journal all your successes and disappointments. Look for plants that might need to be divided next spring for yourself and for our plant sale. For me, it has been a difficult summer in some ways with my vegetable garden. Things that usually do well, have not done so this year. Kay, sera sera... There’s always the farm stands. And we have many to choose from.
4. We are so fortunate to live in one of the most beautiful regions of New England. But things are changing all around us. Be mindful of what we can do to protect our environment. Keep an eye to the sky each day. A few days ago , 2 houses from us, we had an unpredicted micro burst on our street. A large tree came down with wires on a car with people in it. No one was hurt fortunately, but it was very scary. Enjoy the rest of the summer.
Photos: Water hyacinth in bloom and lady’s mantle after a rain.
JULY 2023
Hello members. Welcome to the month of July. It has been a very interesting season so far this year. And I don’t mean in a good way. I guess this is the new normal for us.
1. I am repeating one suggestion I told you in my June hints….With so many ups and downs in the weather, especially with climate change, I believe we all should pay more attention to the weather reports. I keep a daily temperature diary. It’s available on the Internet. It has saved me many times from losing plants to an unexpected frost or heat wave. Try to plant and transplant on overcast cool day. By now we should be all set in that department.
2. Garden vegetables and annuals will do very well with a water soluble fertilizer now. With all the rain we have been having, the soil nutrients have been somewhat flushed from the soil, especially in containers. I use Jack’s 20-20-20 on flowers, and organic Neptune’s Harvest on my veggies every 2 weeks. It really makes a difference. Make sure you never increase the recommended amount, and be sure the soil is damp before the application, other wise the fertilizer can burn the plants.
3. Time to cut back the pansies and place them in the shade. They do not like hot summer temperatures. They may revive in the fall when temperatures cool off. No guarantee though.
4. Don’t forget to deadhead, perennials and annuals. This will keep the bloom coming all summer for annuals and prevent perennials from pouring their energy into making seeds. Harvest your vegetables at their peak. Remember finding a zucchini as big as a baseball bat, not good for much of anything.
5. Be on the look out for bad garden bugs, slugs, and anything else that attacks your beautiful plants. Early intervention is very important. There are many kinds of safe organic methods available to control them. No need to use anything toxic. I use an organic treatment for slugs, called Sluggo. It really works.
6. Now is time to fertilize azaleas and rhododendrons. Use Hollytone at the recommended amount for size of your shrub. It has been an exceptional year for the bloom of peonies, Cornus Kousa dogwoods, and probably a lot more I haven’t seen. So, it makes up for what didn’t bloom for us this spring. Mother Nature’s compensation. Have faith, not all is lost. Have a wonderful summer and enjoy your gardens however large or small they are.
Photos: Cornus Kousa Dogwood, Peony.
Hello members. Welcome to the month of July. It has been a very interesting season so far this year. And I don’t mean in a good way. I guess this is the new normal for us.
1. I am repeating one suggestion I told you in my June hints….With so many ups and downs in the weather, especially with climate change, I believe we all should pay more attention to the weather reports. I keep a daily temperature diary. It’s available on the Internet. It has saved me many times from losing plants to an unexpected frost or heat wave. Try to plant and transplant on overcast cool day. By now we should be all set in that department.
2. Garden vegetables and annuals will do very well with a water soluble fertilizer now. With all the rain we have been having, the soil nutrients have been somewhat flushed from the soil, especially in containers. I use Jack’s 20-20-20 on flowers, and organic Neptune’s Harvest on my veggies every 2 weeks. It really makes a difference. Make sure you never increase the recommended amount, and be sure the soil is damp before the application, other wise the fertilizer can burn the plants.
3. Time to cut back the pansies and place them in the shade. They do not like hot summer temperatures. They may revive in the fall when temperatures cool off. No guarantee though.
4. Don’t forget to deadhead, perennials and annuals. This will keep the bloom coming all summer for annuals and prevent perennials from pouring their energy into making seeds. Harvest your vegetables at their peak. Remember finding a zucchini as big as a baseball bat, not good for much of anything.
5. Be on the look out for bad garden bugs, slugs, and anything else that attacks your beautiful plants. Early intervention is very important. There are many kinds of safe organic methods available to control them. No need to use anything toxic. I use an organic treatment for slugs, called Sluggo. It really works.
6. Now is time to fertilize azaleas and rhododendrons. Use Hollytone at the recommended amount for size of your shrub. It has been an exceptional year for the bloom of peonies, Cornus Kousa dogwoods, and probably a lot more I haven’t seen. So, it makes up for what didn’t bloom for us this spring. Mother Nature’s compensation. Have faith, not all is lost. Have a wonderful summer and enjoy your gardens however large or small they are.
Photos: Cornus Kousa Dogwood, Peony.
JUNE 2023
1. Several members have asked me why some flowering shrubs and trees are not flowering this spring. Do you remember the first week in February when we had several days of below zero temperatures? Certain trees and shrubs have a bud hardiness that does NOT withstand temperatures below -0 degrees. They set their buds early in the fall for next spring. Like cherry and peach trees, some azaleas, and rhododendrons to name a few. Other plants did not even survive, or are in a weakened state now. There really isn’t anything we can do to prevent that other than asking the nursery people which plants have the best bud hardiness. If you have trees or shrubs that haven’t leafed out yet, or evergreens that are all brown, I’m afraid the news isn’t very good for your plant. I have noticed our native trees and shrubs survived well. Hopefully it doesn’t happen that often. None of my perennials were affected.
2. So far this spring we have had several days of very erratic temperatures and rain fall. This makes it difficult to know when to plant. Watering is essential on really hot days to newly planted perennials, annuals and vegetables. Watering in the early am is best. That is when plants take up the most water.
3. When night temperatures are in the 40’s, for example, it’s not wise to plant tender plants like impatience, begonias, coleus, fuchsias, tomatoes, cucumbers, squashes, eggplant, peppers, basil, and string beans. Mine are waiting patiently in my cold frames.
4. The best time to plant is early on a cool, cloudy day. If the temperature is going to be over 80* I would avoid planting that day. Always water your new plants first before planting them, and once planted, give them a very weak solution of water soluble fertilizer. This will help reduce transplant shock. Keep an eye on them for a few days until they become established.
5. A little fun fact. What does the butter cup, known as a weed, and often put under one’s chin to see if you like butter, have in common with the beautiful flowers of the ranunculus plant? They are related. Same family.
6. Another reminder. Gardening should be fun. Don’t over do it. I already have a list of what I won’t plant next year.
Below is a photo of a native perennial called Amsonia. It has a very delicate blue flower blooming now in my garden. It grows about 2 feet tall, dry hardy, and is unpopular with all the little creatures in the garden.
1. Several members have asked me why some flowering shrubs and trees are not flowering this spring. Do you remember the first week in February when we had several days of below zero temperatures? Certain trees and shrubs have a bud hardiness that does NOT withstand temperatures below -0 degrees. They set their buds early in the fall for next spring. Like cherry and peach trees, some azaleas, and rhododendrons to name a few. Other plants did not even survive, or are in a weakened state now. There really isn’t anything we can do to prevent that other than asking the nursery people which plants have the best bud hardiness. If you have trees or shrubs that haven’t leafed out yet, or evergreens that are all brown, I’m afraid the news isn’t very good for your plant. I have noticed our native trees and shrubs survived well. Hopefully it doesn’t happen that often. None of my perennials were affected.
2. So far this spring we have had several days of very erratic temperatures and rain fall. This makes it difficult to know when to plant. Watering is essential on really hot days to newly planted perennials, annuals and vegetables. Watering in the early am is best. That is when plants take up the most water.
3. When night temperatures are in the 40’s, for example, it’s not wise to plant tender plants like impatience, begonias, coleus, fuchsias, tomatoes, cucumbers, squashes, eggplant, peppers, basil, and string beans. Mine are waiting patiently in my cold frames.
4. The best time to plant is early on a cool, cloudy day. If the temperature is going to be over 80* I would avoid planting that day. Always water your new plants first before planting them, and once planted, give them a very weak solution of water soluble fertilizer. This will help reduce transplant shock. Keep an eye on them for a few days until they become established.
5. A little fun fact. What does the butter cup, known as a weed, and often put under one’s chin to see if you like butter, have in common with the beautiful flowers of the ranunculus plant? They are related. Same family.
6. Another reminder. Gardening should be fun. Don’t over do it. I already have a list of what I won’t plant next year.
Below is a photo of a native perennial called Amsonia. It has a very delicate blue flower blooming now in my garden. It grows about 2 feet tall, dry hardy, and is unpopular with all the little creatures in the garden.
MAY 2023
April showers bring May flowers. We have a little less than 2 weeks to prepare for our annual plant sale. It’s our major fundraiser for the year. How do we prepare?
1. With all the recent rain, it’s a perfect time to dig our perennials for the sale. It will give them time to recover from being dug so they look beautiful for May 13th. Always keep them in the shade for a few days after being dug. With the recent weather report, I don’t think that will be a problem.
2. To those of you who are growing parsley or basil for the sale, (my students in the seedling workshop). It’s time to harden off the seedlings. But only the parsley. Basil does not like any cold weather. So keep them indoors for some warmer days. Hardening off means letting seedlings and tender grown green house plants, get used to being out doors with sun and wind. Do it slowly, in and out, a few hours a day for a week before the sale. Keep an eye on them. This applies to any plant you grew yourself. (I went into details in my March hints about hardening off plants). Good garden centers do this for you. And usually won’t sell plants too early in the spring if it’s not their time to be out. The big box stores don’t always tell you that. They just want to sell you their merchandise. Beware.Just because you see the plants on display, doesn’t always mean it time to plant them…
3. A good rule of thumb is to wait for the last full moon in May to plant, and it is usually the last frost. But this year that is May 5 th. I think that is way to early to plant tender annuals and some vegetables. Cold crops like broccoli, cabbage , Brussel sprouts, spinach, lettuce and Swiss chard , onions, and potatoes, will do fine. Some plants should wait until the soil warms before planting. A soil temp of 60° is good for tender plants like tomatoes, cucumbers, summer squash, peppers, eggplant, string beans, and basil. Flowers like begonias, impatiens morning glories, or any tropicals need warmer soil temperatures. Our weather has been very erratic lately. So listen to the local weather reports. You gain nothing by planting to early.
4. It’s also a good idea to test your soil for nutrients and soil ph before you plant. There are inexpensive ph soil kits available at most good garden centers. Soil samples can be sent off for testing too. Check at local agricultural schools or colleges.
5. Be sure to dead head your spring blooms, daffodils, hyacinths, and tulips. But DO NOT cut off the leaves until they turn brown. These will nourish the bulbs for next year’s blooms.
6.My most important hint for you is to take it easy when gardening. Don’t overdo it. This is very hard for me, as some of you know. It’s so easy to become overwhelmed, discouraged and exhausted. Concentrate on small areas or small jobs first. Don’t try to do everything at once. Have a plan for each day when you go out in the garden and give your self frequent breaks, sit and enjoy the fruits of your labor. Have a cup of tea…Gardening should be fun too. Plenty of fresh air and exercise. Who needs a gym ????
April showers bring May flowers. We have a little less than 2 weeks to prepare for our annual plant sale. It’s our major fundraiser for the year. How do we prepare?
1. With all the recent rain, it’s a perfect time to dig our perennials for the sale. It will give them time to recover from being dug so they look beautiful for May 13th. Always keep them in the shade for a few days after being dug. With the recent weather report, I don’t think that will be a problem.
2. To those of you who are growing parsley or basil for the sale, (my students in the seedling workshop). It’s time to harden off the seedlings. But only the parsley. Basil does not like any cold weather. So keep them indoors for some warmer days. Hardening off means letting seedlings and tender grown green house plants, get used to being out doors with sun and wind. Do it slowly, in and out, a few hours a day for a week before the sale. Keep an eye on them. This applies to any plant you grew yourself. (I went into details in my March hints about hardening off plants). Good garden centers do this for you. And usually won’t sell plants too early in the spring if it’s not their time to be out. The big box stores don’t always tell you that. They just want to sell you their merchandise. Beware.Just because you see the plants on display, doesn’t always mean it time to plant them…
3. A good rule of thumb is to wait for the last full moon in May to plant, and it is usually the last frost. But this year that is May 5 th. I think that is way to early to plant tender annuals and some vegetables. Cold crops like broccoli, cabbage , Brussel sprouts, spinach, lettuce and Swiss chard , onions, and potatoes, will do fine. Some plants should wait until the soil warms before planting. A soil temp of 60° is good for tender plants like tomatoes, cucumbers, summer squash, peppers, eggplant, string beans, and basil. Flowers like begonias, impatiens morning glories, or any tropicals need warmer soil temperatures. Our weather has been very erratic lately. So listen to the local weather reports. You gain nothing by planting to early.
4. It’s also a good idea to test your soil for nutrients and soil ph before you plant. There are inexpensive ph soil kits available at most good garden centers. Soil samples can be sent off for testing too. Check at local agricultural schools or colleges.
5. Be sure to dead head your spring blooms, daffodils, hyacinths, and tulips. But DO NOT cut off the leaves until they turn brown. These will nourish the bulbs for next year’s blooms.
6.My most important hint for you is to take it easy when gardening. Don’t overdo it. This is very hard for me, as some of you know. It’s so easy to become overwhelmed, discouraged and exhausted. Concentrate on small areas or small jobs first. Don’t try to do everything at once. Have a plan for each day when you go out in the garden and give your self frequent breaks, sit and enjoy the fruits of your labor. Have a cup of tea…Gardening should be fun too. Plenty of fresh air and exercise. Who needs a gym ????
APRIL 2023
1. It’s finally time to start spring clean up. I GENTLY rake over flower beds to clear any debris that has fallen over the winter.
2. Once this is done I spread Hollytone fertilizer around everything except rhododendrons and azaleas. They are fertilized after they bloom later. I use a 4”or 5”plastic pot that has holes in the bottom shaking it around plants as I walk slowly spreading the Hollytone.
3. If you haven’t already cleaned your garden tools, now is the time. Wash them with bleach and water. 1 part bleach to 10 parts water. Rinse well.
4. Pruning can be done now too. Cutting off any broken or dead branches from tress and shrubs, roses included. With roses, I start at the tip of the cane and keep cutting at an angle back until I find green wood. With trees, you can scrape a branch to find live wood. If it’s brittle and brown under the bark, it’s usually dead. If it’s green under the bark, it’s alive.
5, Don’t forget our birds returning for spring by putting out clean bird houses and bird baths. They should be placed near shrubs or trees to give the birds security,. They like to preen on branches after a bath. Also don’t forget your bird feeders. They should be cleaned periodically too. If you establish a bird habitat, the birds will keep the bugs, especially mosquitoes at bay in your yards. Birds feed their chicks bugs for a long time after they hatch…All you need for a habitat is food, water, and shelter. We have had over 42 species each year. Our hummingbirds and orioles will return about May 1 st. I put out a sugar water feeder for the hummers and grape jam for the orioles.
6. A reminder for my class of seed starting members. Remember to turn the your tray and water from the bottom with warm water. Once you see roots coming out the bottom of each cell, and at least 2 or 3 sets of true leaves, it’s time to pot them up into 3” or 4” pots to be ready for the plant sale in May. Still keep them in a sunny window inside. It’s not time to put them out side yet !!! I’ll tell you more when it’s time to harden them off a week or so before the sale.. Hardening them off refers to getting them used to being out side slowly in the full sun and wind etc. It usually takes a few hours a day for about a week. Young seedlings have to form a waxy cuticle (tissue) that protects them from being over heated by the ultraviolet rays of the sun, pathogens and insects. This is very important. Plants that are put outside without this process usually fall over and die.
1. It’s finally time to start spring clean up. I GENTLY rake over flower beds to clear any debris that has fallen over the winter.
2. Once this is done I spread Hollytone fertilizer around everything except rhododendrons and azaleas. They are fertilized after they bloom later. I use a 4”or 5”plastic pot that has holes in the bottom shaking it around plants as I walk slowly spreading the Hollytone.
3. If you haven’t already cleaned your garden tools, now is the time. Wash them with bleach and water. 1 part bleach to 10 parts water. Rinse well.
4. Pruning can be done now too. Cutting off any broken or dead branches from tress and shrubs, roses included. With roses, I start at the tip of the cane and keep cutting at an angle back until I find green wood. With trees, you can scrape a branch to find live wood. If it’s brittle and brown under the bark, it’s usually dead. If it’s green under the bark, it’s alive.
5, Don’t forget our birds returning for spring by putting out clean bird houses and bird baths. They should be placed near shrubs or trees to give the birds security,. They like to preen on branches after a bath. Also don’t forget your bird feeders. They should be cleaned periodically too. If you establish a bird habitat, the birds will keep the bugs, especially mosquitoes at bay in your yards. Birds feed their chicks bugs for a long time after they hatch…All you need for a habitat is food, water, and shelter. We have had over 42 species each year. Our hummingbirds and orioles will return about May 1 st. I put out a sugar water feeder for the hummers and grape jam for the orioles.
6. A reminder for my class of seed starting members. Remember to turn the your tray and water from the bottom with warm water. Once you see roots coming out the bottom of each cell, and at least 2 or 3 sets of true leaves, it’s time to pot them up into 3” or 4” pots to be ready for the plant sale in May. Still keep them in a sunny window inside. It’s not time to put them out side yet !!! I’ll tell you more when it’s time to harden them off a week or so before the sale.. Hardening them off refers to getting them used to being out side slowly in the full sun and wind etc. It usually takes a few hours a day for about a week. Young seedlings have to form a waxy cuticle (tissue) that protects them from being over heated by the ultraviolet rays of the sun, pathogens and insects. This is very important. Plants that are put outside without this process usually fall over and die.
MARCH 2023
So much for an early spring. Mother Nature always has her way. March, in like a lion !?!? There’s not much we can do outside now. How about inside?
1. This is a good time to think about your house plants. They are so good for us if we take care of them properly. Beside cleaning the air, releasing oxygen, they add a pleasing interest to our interior design. 99% of all house plants are tropical. When I buy a new house plant, I always look up its country of origin. This tells you what they like. When bringing them home in cold weather, you should make sure they are properly covered leaving the store. Never leave them in your car for long. I would avoid purchasing them in weather below 32*. Once home, check the label for care instructions carefully.
2. Over watering house plants is the biggest mistake made. Make sure your container has drainage holes in the bottom. I take smaller plants to my kitchen sink and use warm water sprayed softly on them until the water comes out of the bottom of the container. African violets don’t like their leaves wet, so placing them in a shallow bowl of warm water for a few minutes allows them to take up water from the bottom. Orchids don’t like their flowers wet. Orchids are mostly epiphytes. (Air plants that cling onto other vegetation like trees while growing in the wild.) The sink method works best for them. Also misting helps too. I never use ice cubes for a watering them. Think about it. They are tropical and like warmth and humidity.
3. Watering large plants, I use a saucer under the container to catch the excess water coming out. If not taken up by the plant in a few minutes, dump the water remaining in the saucer.
4. As the sun becomes stronger, you can use a VERY weak solution of water soluble fertilizer to encourage growth and bloom during the season. 20-20-20 is a good ratio, reducing the amount by 2/3. So if it calls for a tablespoon per gallon of water, use 1 teaspoon per gallon. A clean recycled 1 gallon milk jug is perfect. Jack’s fertilizer is a good one to use.
5. Once outside temperatures are at least 60* consistently, house plants can go outside. But never in direct sun. If you’ve been inside all winter and early spring, what happens to you if you sit in the sun for your first days out side? You sun burn and so do house plants. They love being outside but be very careful. I keep most of my house plants in the shade outside all summer. If they were inside in a sunny window during the winter, it’s like being out side in the shade in the summer.
So much for an early spring. Mother Nature always has her way. March, in like a lion !?!? There’s not much we can do outside now. How about inside?
1. This is a good time to think about your house plants. They are so good for us if we take care of them properly. Beside cleaning the air, releasing oxygen, they add a pleasing interest to our interior design. 99% of all house plants are tropical. When I buy a new house plant, I always look up its country of origin. This tells you what they like. When bringing them home in cold weather, you should make sure they are properly covered leaving the store. Never leave them in your car for long. I would avoid purchasing them in weather below 32*. Once home, check the label for care instructions carefully.
2. Over watering house plants is the biggest mistake made. Make sure your container has drainage holes in the bottom. I take smaller plants to my kitchen sink and use warm water sprayed softly on them until the water comes out of the bottom of the container. African violets don’t like their leaves wet, so placing them in a shallow bowl of warm water for a few minutes allows them to take up water from the bottom. Orchids don’t like their flowers wet. Orchids are mostly epiphytes. (Air plants that cling onto other vegetation like trees while growing in the wild.) The sink method works best for them. Also misting helps too. I never use ice cubes for a watering them. Think about it. They are tropical and like warmth and humidity.
3. Watering large plants, I use a saucer under the container to catch the excess water coming out. If not taken up by the plant in a few minutes, dump the water remaining in the saucer.
4. As the sun becomes stronger, you can use a VERY weak solution of water soluble fertilizer to encourage growth and bloom during the season. 20-20-20 is a good ratio, reducing the amount by 2/3. So if it calls for a tablespoon per gallon of water, use 1 teaspoon per gallon. A clean recycled 1 gallon milk jug is perfect. Jack’s fertilizer is a good one to use.
5. Once outside temperatures are at least 60* consistently, house plants can go outside. But never in direct sun. If you’ve been inside all winter and early spring, what happens to you if you sit in the sun for your first days out side? You sun burn and so do house plants. They love being outside but be very careful. I keep most of my house plants in the shade outside all summer. If they were inside in a sunny window during the winter, it’s like being out side in the shade in the summer.
FEBRUARY 2023
The first month of the new year was unusual in many ways. Exceptional warmth and rain. It doesn’t look that way for February.
1. Please don’t worry about all the bulbs and perennials popping up. They will be ok. Will we have an early spring? Hard to tell. February and March can be very unpredictable.
2. A great diversion now is getting ready for starting seeds. My seed orders are coming in now. And seed packets at local retail stores are in too. Though it’s a little early to start seeds indoors. (Plants started to early get very leggy.) March is a better month. The sun is much stronger then. But you can start getting your supplies.
3. For my seeds started indoors, I use PRO- MIX. It’s a sterile soil like medium used for seedlings and other plantings, including containers. It’s available at any good garden center. Or Dodge’s Agway, Hampton Falls. I buy PRO-MIX in large bails. It’s also sold in smaller loose bags. I have had exceptional results with it. One other very important item is called DAMP OFF. It’s a sterile milled sphagnum moss, used as a topper for seeds to prevent a fungus growing that kills seedlings. For a hands on experience, I’ll will send around a sign up sheet at the February meeting for those who want a lesson on starting seeds indoors. This will also be helpful for those interested in starting plants for the May plant sale. Vegetable seedlings are a HOT item I’ve been told.
4. We must not forget our area birds now. We feed them with seed and suet. But the American robins and blue birds are especially vulnerable this time of year as they are NOT seed eaters. So many come north early, or don’t migrate at all. They eat berries, small fruits, worms and insects. If you had berries in your Christmas arrangements, put them out where the birds can see them. Or place some fruits like grapes, blueberries, cranberries, in a visible spot. When we get snow, these birds have a very difficult time finding food. If you have room in your garden, consider planting a small crab apple tree this spring, or any plant that has berries. You will be rewarded with colorful blooms in spring and the joy of feeding our feathered friends in the winter. There are many varieties to choose from.
5. Water for birds is very important this time of year too. There are small heating coils available for water sources when it freezes. They can be found at any bird supply shop.
The first month of the new year was unusual in many ways. Exceptional warmth and rain. It doesn’t look that way for February.
1. Please don’t worry about all the bulbs and perennials popping up. They will be ok. Will we have an early spring? Hard to tell. February and March can be very unpredictable.
2. A great diversion now is getting ready for starting seeds. My seed orders are coming in now. And seed packets at local retail stores are in too. Though it’s a little early to start seeds indoors. (Plants started to early get very leggy.) March is a better month. The sun is much stronger then. But you can start getting your supplies.
3. For my seeds started indoors, I use PRO- MIX. It’s a sterile soil like medium used for seedlings and other plantings, including containers. It’s available at any good garden center. Or Dodge’s Agway, Hampton Falls. I buy PRO-MIX in large bails. It’s also sold in smaller loose bags. I have had exceptional results with it. One other very important item is called DAMP OFF. It’s a sterile milled sphagnum moss, used as a topper for seeds to prevent a fungus growing that kills seedlings. For a hands on experience, I’ll will send around a sign up sheet at the February meeting for those who want a lesson on starting seeds indoors. This will also be helpful for those interested in starting plants for the May plant sale. Vegetable seedlings are a HOT item I’ve been told.
4. We must not forget our area birds now. We feed them with seed and suet. But the American robins and blue birds are especially vulnerable this time of year as they are NOT seed eaters. So many come north early, or don’t migrate at all. They eat berries, small fruits, worms and insects. If you had berries in your Christmas arrangements, put them out where the birds can see them. Or place some fruits like grapes, blueberries, cranberries, in a visible spot. When we get snow, these birds have a very difficult time finding food. If you have room in your garden, consider planting a small crab apple tree this spring, or any plant that has berries. You will be rewarded with colorful blooms in spring and the joy of feeding our feathered friends in the winter. There are many varieties to choose from.
5. Water for birds is very important this time of year too. There are small heating coils available for water sources when it freezes. They can be found at any bird supply shop.
JANUARY 2023
Though there isn’t much going on in the gardening scene now, it’s a good time to reflect on the things we especially enjoyed and learned in our gardens last year. And it’s not to early to start thinking about what you would like to do in the spring.
1. May I encourage you to try starting something from seed. It’s very easy and you don’t need much, just the will to try. Seed catalogues are coming in the mail, and stores are showing their seed packets. If you don’t have much room, you can grow lots of plants in containers. There is nothing more delicious, more beautiful than picking a fresh head of lettuce, a cucumber or a beautiful floral bouquet you have grown yourself. Start by reading the instructions on the seed packets. It will say where to plant, if ideal for containers, how many days to maturity, if it can be started indoors, sun exposure, etc. I buy my seeds early because popular seeds run out quickly. What I can’t find in stores, I send for by mail. I will give you more information on this subject in my February hints.
2. Easy plants to start indoors are lettuce, tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, Swiss chard, broccoli, parsley, sage, basil, and chive, just to name a few. Some annual flowers are marigolds, cosmos, zinnias, lobelia, dusty miller, and coleus. Marigolds may sound boring to most people, but there are some great new introductions that are beautiful and bloom all summer. A light yellow one called Alumia Vanilla Cream. Fire ball, a red, that turns orange. A mum like one called Mission Giant Yellow. A few of my favorite annual vines that I start are Spanish Flag, Purple Hyacinth Bean, and and Cardinal Climber. The humming birds and butterflies love them. Sending photos. Perennials like foxglove, echinacea, salvia, coreopsis, and feverfew, etc. are easy to grow from seed too. In some instances it’s more practical to buy plants already stated. Impatiens, begonias, and petunias for example.
3. I don’t know if any of you have noticed, but some spring bulbs are coming up because of the warm weather. I have daffodils doing just that. Not to worry. They will be fine. Their leaf tips may turn brown, but the flowers will still bloom in the spring. Enjoy this turn of warm weather, but beware of how quickly New England weather can change.
Though there isn’t much going on in the gardening scene now, it’s a good time to reflect on the things we especially enjoyed and learned in our gardens last year. And it’s not to early to start thinking about what you would like to do in the spring.
1. May I encourage you to try starting something from seed. It’s very easy and you don’t need much, just the will to try. Seed catalogues are coming in the mail, and stores are showing their seed packets. If you don’t have much room, you can grow lots of plants in containers. There is nothing more delicious, more beautiful than picking a fresh head of lettuce, a cucumber or a beautiful floral bouquet you have grown yourself. Start by reading the instructions on the seed packets. It will say where to plant, if ideal for containers, how many days to maturity, if it can be started indoors, sun exposure, etc. I buy my seeds early because popular seeds run out quickly. What I can’t find in stores, I send for by mail. I will give you more information on this subject in my February hints.
2. Easy plants to start indoors are lettuce, tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, Swiss chard, broccoli, parsley, sage, basil, and chive, just to name a few. Some annual flowers are marigolds, cosmos, zinnias, lobelia, dusty miller, and coleus. Marigolds may sound boring to most people, but there are some great new introductions that are beautiful and bloom all summer. A light yellow one called Alumia Vanilla Cream. Fire ball, a red, that turns orange. A mum like one called Mission Giant Yellow. A few of my favorite annual vines that I start are Spanish Flag, Purple Hyacinth Bean, and and Cardinal Climber. The humming birds and butterflies love them. Sending photos. Perennials like foxglove, echinacea, salvia, coreopsis, and feverfew, etc. are easy to grow from seed too. In some instances it’s more practical to buy plants already stated. Impatiens, begonias, and petunias for example.
3. I don’t know if any of you have noticed, but some spring bulbs are coming up because of the warm weather. I have daffodils doing just that. Not to worry. They will be fine. Their leaf tips may turn brown, but the flowers will still bloom in the spring. Enjoy this turn of warm weather, but beware of how quickly New England weather can change.